{"id":4470,"date":"2022-01-15T11:53:05","date_gmt":"2022-01-15T10:53:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gardensillustrated.com\/?p=69409"},"modified":"2022-01-15T12:09:10","modified_gmt":"2022-01-15T11:09:10","slug":"pots-of-style-three-creative-houseplant-displays","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/gardensillustrated\/rss_feed\/pots-of-style-three-creative-houseplant-displays\/","title":{"rendered":"Pots of style: Three creative houseplant displays"},"content":{"rendered":"

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By Katie Beale\n \t\t<\/p>

Published: Saturday, 15 January 2022 at 12:00 am<\/p>

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It was an interesting challenge to come up with a different take on working with houseplants<\/a>. Traditionally, they tend to be displayed in single pots<\/a> rather than combined together as you might when arranging pot displays of garden annuals and perennials<\/a>. Fortunately, I live with a sculptor, Patrick Haines, and enlisted his help in finding alternative ways to bring these arrangements to life.<\/p>\n

STAR TURN<\/strong><\/h2>\n

This star-shaped steel sculpture turned out to make a perfect frame for this collection of plants. I like the way its three-dimensional form allows the plants to nestle together while the strong, linear outline draws in the focus to the plants.<\/p>\n

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\""Eva\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>\n

How to achieve the look<\/h3>\n

Container and composition<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Fittonia<\/em>, Soleirolia <\/em>and Peperomia <\/em>are all naturally low, ground-hugging plants, which means they knit together and spill over the front edge. The asparagus foliage is so light and feathery that you can still see the outline of the sculpture through\u00a0it and its upright form contrasts with the low-growing plants. The bright-white veining on the Fittonia <\/em>provides a good colour lift to break up the greens.<\/p>\n

\""Eva\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>\n

The plants\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Clockwise from top left:<\/em><\/p>\n

Peperomia tetraphylla <\/em><\/strong>An epiphyte with rounded, succulent-like leaves.\u00a0A drought-tolerant plant that grows on trees or rotting logs in humid forests. 15cm. RHS H1B\u2020.<\/p>\n

Fittonia albivenis <\/em>Verschaffeltii Group<\/strong> Forms neat mats of brightly veined foliage. Needs to be kept out of direct sunlight. 5cm. AGM*. RHS H1A.<\/p>\n

Soleirolia soleirolii<\/strong> <\/em>Known as mind- your-own-business or baby\u2019s tears, this useful groundcover can become invasive if planted outdoors. Prefers partial shade. 5cm. RHS H4, USDA 9a-11.<\/p>\n

Asparagus setaceus <\/em><\/strong>Commonly known as the asparagus fern, this plant is not in fact a fern but a climber and member of the lily family. Native to humid forests in South Africa. 2.5m. AGM. RHS H2, USDA 9a-12.<\/p>\n

Cultivation and care<\/strong><\/p>\n

The plants used here all have a similar need for high humidity and indirect light, which means they associate together well and are easier to maintain. Misting\u00a0at least once a week is essential to keep them happy. I took the plants out of their pots and wrapped the rootballs in sheep\u2019s wool secured with string so that I could pack them in more easily, but you could use moss as an alternative to the wool.<\/p>\n

I would treat them like Japanese kokedama <\/em>moss-ball displays, and soak the rootballs in water once a week, making sure they\u00a0are well drained before putting them back in the arrangement. The Peperomia <\/em>likes lots of drainage so it\u2019s important to ensure that it doesn\u2019t get too wet.<\/p>\n

LIGHT AND AIRY<\/h2>\n

These glass laboratory jars had been knocking around in Patrick\u2019s studio for some years. I like their solidity and the different shapes, and thought it would be interesting to experiment with using them to display plants.\u00a0I tried potted ferns at first but they would quickly outgrow their confines and the pots detracted from the shape of the jars. Air plants became a better alternative because they grow slowly and don\u2019t need containers.<\/p>\n

\""Eva\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>\n

How to achieve the look<\/h3>\n

Container and composition<\/strong><\/p>\n

These are all different species of Tillandsia<\/em>, air plants originating from South America and members of the Bromeliaceae family. I was intrigued by the different forms\u00a0they take and how displaying them in these jars implied a sense of scientific investigation. As epiphytes they obtain their moisture and nutrients from the air and rain rather than soil so can\u00a0be displayed attached to pieces of driftwood or rocks, or suspended in small terrariums. I kept things simple here by hanging the T. usneoides <\/em>from the top of one of the jars with a small piece of wire and placing the group of three T. ionantha <\/em>on a dried branch which meant that they were easier to hold in a good position.<\/p>\n

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\""Eva\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>\n

The plants<\/strong><\/p>\n

Clockwise from top left:<\/em><\/p>\n

Tillandsia ionantha <\/em><\/strong>Forms a compact, dainty rosette resembling a pineapple, which colours red before it flowers. Known for being one of the most robust air plants requiring minimal maintenance. 5cm. RHS H1C.<\/p>\n

Tillandsia usneoides <\/em><\/strong>Known as Spanish moss, although it\u2019s neither from Spain nor a moss. It forms\nlarge festoons of silvery-grey, wiry foliage and grows up to several\u00a0metres long in its natural tropical habitat. Usneoides <\/em>means \u2018resembling lichen\u2019. 10cm. RHS H1C, USDA 8a-11.<\/p>\n

Tillandsia xerographica <\/em><\/strong>Known as\u00a0the queen of air plants, this evergreen, epiphytic perennial forms a rosette\nof silvery-grey foliage that tapers to\u00a0a fine, curly point, creating a quirky, otherworldly silhouette. 20cm. RHS H1C.<\/p>\n

Cultivation and care<\/strong><\/p>\n

It\u2019s important to ensure that\u00a0tillandsias receive adequate moisture. Clean rainwater is preferable as they\u00a0are sensitive to the chlorine and lime\u00a0in hard-water areas, which can block their trichomes (the small, specialised, hair-like growths that coat their foliage and through which they absorb the nutrients they need). They need to be fully soaked in water at least once a week for an hour or so. Drain off any excess water before returning to the display\u00a0by placing them upside down as they may rot if water becomes trapped inside them. They may also need additional misting if they are in a dry spot. Bright but filtered light suits them best.<\/p>\n

HANGING TOGETHER<\/h2>\n

I wanted to find a way to display trailing plants together, but when I tried using a collection of hanging containers the composition was too busy. These rusted, mild steel shelves with a narrow profile and near-invisible supports meant that the plants themselves remained the focus. I also used containers that were the same colour tone as the shelves, terracotta pots and a rusted bread tin, which blend in with the shelves and help to highlight the foliage.<\/span><\/p>\n

\""Eva\"<\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/source><\/picture><\/div>\n

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How to achieve the look<\/h3>\n

Container and composition<\/strong><\/p>\n

The shelves are cut from 6mm thick\u00a0mild steel, which was left to rust naturally outside in the garden. I drilled holes in the stone wall and inserted rusted steel bars for the shelves to sit on, creating a floating effect. The shelves aren\u2019t fixed so can be lifted and replaced with different sizes quite easily. The strong outlines of the fishbone cactus and the Echeveria <\/em>were\u00a0a good contrast with the more delicate, cascading forms of the Hoya <\/em>and Senecio<\/em>. Giving each plant an individual shelf meant I could play with the composition, almost like hanging pictures on a wall.\u00a0You could continue adding shelves to fill\u00a0a whole wall and rearrange the plants as your collection grows.<\/p>\n

Plants<\/strong><\/p>\n

Clockwise from top left:<\/em><\/p>\n

Senecio rowleyanus <\/em><\/strong>Known as string of beads, this tender, trailing succulent is native to deserts of East Africa where it forms groundcover. Avoid overwatering. 15cm. RHS H2, USDA 9a-12.<\/p>\n

Echeveria agavoides<\/strong> <\/em>Rosette-forming, evergreen succulent, native to Mexico. It throws up red flowers on tall, thin stems in summer.\u00a010cm. AGM. RHS H2.<\/p>\n

Hoya linearis <\/em><\/strong>The porcelain flower is an epiphyte native to forests of the Himalayas, with long, slender leaves on trailing stems. Produces clusters\u00a0of scented, creamy, waxy flowers in summer. 20cm. RHS H2.<\/p>\n

Disocactus anguliger <\/em><\/strong>The epiphytic fishbone cactus is native to the Mexican rainforests. Once mature, it produces white, fragrant flowers. 30cm. RHS H1B.<\/p>\n

Cultivation and care<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Hoya <\/em>and Epiphyllum <\/em>are epiphytes and like a humid atmosphere. They benefit from an occasional misting and a position that doesn\u2019t get too dry, so avoid placing them near radiators. The Senecio and Echeveria <\/em>are succulents that can take\u00a0a drier situation, so it\u2019s important not to overwater them. I aim for a weekly soak in summer, reduced to monthly in the winter. They all like bright, indirect light so an east- or west-facing wall near a window would suit them. All can be propagated with stem or leaf cuttings placed in water or well- drained compost. Eventually these plants may grow too large for the narrow shelves and need potting on, so having young plants to replace them could be useful.<\/p>\n

* *Holds an Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society.\u2020Hardiness ratings given where available.<\/p>\n

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