Vintage fashion: the best dealers, auctions, fairs and online retailers

By Jan Waldron

Published: Wednesday, 24 August 2022 at 12:00 am

Vintage clothing has never been more in fashion. Chic, unique, and often cheaper than its modern-day counterparts, what’s not to like? Hollywood A-listers such Kirsten Dunst, Reese Witherspoon and Sienna Miller often delve into thrift shops when they want a glamour hit on the red carpet, but you don’t need an A-list budget to work the vintage look.

When it comes to vintage fashion, there are two types of collector. The first are style mavens who are looking for something that nobody else will be wearing. The second, and less common, type are those who buy to collect. But whatever the reason for collecting, the pleasure of finding a one-of-a-kind design is oh-so rewarding.

What is vintage fashion?

There’s a great deal of debate over what’s vintage and antique. Put simply, vintage fashion is clothing, shoes, bags and other wearable accessories from the 1920s or later. Prior to that date, we fall into the realms of antique textiles and ‘period’ clothing.

Couture garments were made to fit the measurements and requirements of a specific client. One couture dress could take three weeks to produce and would have been as beautifully finished on the inside as it was on the outside.

Ready-to-wear items, otherwise known as pret-a-porter, were mass-produced and reflected the designer’s key trends each season. They were bought off the peg and were therefore far more affordable. These days, vintage ready-to-wear dresses can be found from as little as £40, depending on condition.

If you want to buy a garment by a designer, you could pay £1,000 or even more. Ossie Clark’s 1970s styles, for example, were propelled to new levels and prices after an exhibition at the V&A in 2004, and prices are still strong. Rare, immaculate examples of couture can fetch four figure sums.

Top tips for buying vintage fashion

Look for signs of couture

Couture items should have an inventory number, hand-written on a cotton tag attached inside. Like a barcode, it means you could find out exactly when the garment was made and who for.

Check the condition

Look under the arms for staining – it’s not easy to clean and get out.

Find a specialist cleaner Seek out a dry cleaner who deals with wedding gowns, as they often have the expertise needed to deal with vintage clothing.

Store the garment carefully

Store vintage clothing in a garment bag made from a material that will allow it breathe, such as cotton, and protect it from dust.

Where to buy vintage fashion

The best fashion auctions

The best vintage fashion fairs

Where to buy vintage fashion online

Vintage fashion websites

Most dealers have good sites, such as c20vintagefashion.co.uk, but also look on online auction sites such as eBay.com for vintage pieces worldwide.

Hope & Harlequin

As well as standing at popular fairs such as Frock Me! and having a bricks and mortar shop hidden away in Brighton’s South Lanes, Louise Hill has an online store for her vintage fashion business Hope & Harlequin. ‘I love hearing about a dress bought from me years ago and worn to a wonderful event or how it’s become one of my clients’ favourite items,’ she says. ‘Occasionally I see the pieces again and it’s like seeing old friends.’ Louise sources her stunning collection of dresses, tops, coats and more dating from the 1920s to 1980s in the UK and around the world.