{"id":10448,"date":"2022-04-28T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-04-27T22:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/homesantiques\/?post_type=purple_issue&p=10448"},"modified":"2022-05-12T10:12:28","modified_gmt":"2022-05-12T08:12:28","slug":"escape-to-the-isle-of-purbek","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/homesantiques\/2022\/04\/28\/escape-to-the-isle-of-purbek\/","title":{"rendered":"Escape to the isle of Purbek"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Escape to <\/span><\/h5>\n\n

THE ISLE OF PURBECK<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n

This compact corner of Dorset combines an evocative sense of yesteryear with ancient history, diverse natural beauty, and a rich vein of creative inspiration, finds Sharon Parsons <\/strong><\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n

\n\n

First things first: the Isle of Purbeck is not an island at all, but a 60-square-mile peninsula jutting dramatically out of Dorset\u2019s coastline. Its wide sandy beaches, rocky precipices and cliff top plateaus edge a pocket of unchanged loveliness: heathland dotted with bright gorse; green valleys knitted with remote farms and tiny hamlets; and, not least, the spine of chalk \u2013 the Purbeck Hills \u2013 running right through it, with a swooping gap showcasing the momentous ruins of Corfe Castle.<\/p>\n\n

To say this land is ancient barely touches the bones of it. Purbeck forms part of the World Heritage Jurassic Coastline, with 185-million-year-old fossils to prove it. Stone Age burial chambers dot the hillsides; there is evidence of early settlements; and the famous Purbeck stone was first quarried here by the Romans in 1AD.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

It\u2019s a place that has long inspired writers, poets and artists, from Thomas Hardy to Enid Blyton, Joseph Turner to Philip Steer. Its landscape became the backdrop to adventures with smugglers and sunken treasure; its sometimes dramatic seafaring history depicted in oils. Even Vanessa Bell and her Bloomsbury circle descended for holidays. Today\u2019s creatives are still captivated by its magical qualities, with the annual Purbeck Art Weeks showcasing a wealth of artistic talent.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

A trip here might encompass walks through ancient woodlands (Arne Nature Reserve is well worth a visit) or along well-trodden coastal paths; exploring stone-built villages steeped in local legend; or browsing for quality artwork and artisan crafts. Happily, the area is well-served for accommodation and pubs \u2013 many with as rich a history as Purbeck itself.<\/p>\n\n

Purbeck stone<\/h4>\n\n

The craggy silhouette of Corfe Castle\u2019s ruins never fails to take your breath away, and its long history is equally dramatic: during the Civil War it was a Royalist stronghold and home to the loyal Bankes Family. An act of treachery saw it fall to the Parliamentarians, who swiftly destroyed it.<\/p>\n\n

Below is Corfe village, which was once the heart of the marble trade. Many of the Purbeck stone co ages and buildings incorporate materials pilfered long ago from the castle\u2019s remnants, which is why some boast grander features than you might expect. Here you\u2019ll nd an ancient church, a host of shops, pubs, hotels and historic buildings \u2013 including the smallest town hall (and museum) in England, and a model village showing how the castle would once have looked.<\/p>\n\n

The village time forgot<\/h4>\n\n

In winter 1943, the residents of Tyneham \u2013a remote village tucked deep in the valley \u2013 were given 28 days to leave their homes by the British Army, who requisitioned the area for D-Day training. The villagers were promised that they could return after the war; this pledge was never kept. Today, the area is still used as a ring range, but the village is open to the public on certain days (check first*).<\/p>\n\n

The li le schoolhouse has been beautifully restored and is just as it would have been when the residents left , even down to the children\u2019s nature study essays on the desk. The church is now a fascinating museum, commemorating the generations of families who once lived here.<\/p>\n\n

Stroll in Swanage<\/h4>\n\n
\"\"
The iconic medieval ruins of Corfe Castle; newly renovated, The Bear in Wareham has a cosy vibe; the beautifully restored schoolroom in the lost village of Tyneham; get the full Famous Five experience as you board the steam train from Swanage to Corfe; the Square & Compass, tiny in size but big on charm. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

The Victorians developed this shing port into a quintessential British seaside town. The traditional promenade anks the sandy beach, with the restored 19th-century Swanage pier \u2013 built for paddle steamers to transport Purbeck stone \u2013 stretching out into the bay. Some of the town\u2019s features are slightly incongruous: the Wellington Clock Tower at Peveril Point was originally erected on old London Bridge, while the Town Hall fa\u00e7ade once graced Mercers\u2019 <\/span>Hall in the City of London.<\/p>\n\n

Duck down passages o the main street to nd a backwater of li le shops, and stop by the Enid Blyton-ish heritage railway station. Here you can take the steam train through the valley to Corfe Castle, just as her <\/span>Famous <\/em>Five <\/em>gang did!<\/p>\n\n

Hunt for treasure<\/h4>\n\n

In Swanage, Smith\u2019s Vintage is a two-storey emporium of English and French furniture (owner Paul Ridges makes forays across the Channel whenever he can), combined with tempting brocante finds \u2013 from ceramics and ironware to antique linens. Meanwhile, fans of vintage and retro will love the aptly named Eklektika Antique Centre: a rambling space with everything from classic vinyl to quirky advertising signs.<\/p>\n\n

The Mulberry Tree Gallery shows works by local painters such as Ben Spurling, who captures the essence of Purbeck, and contemporary ceramicists Kara Leigh Ford and Alice Funge. Their pieces are beautifully showcased alongside gi s and homewares. Art fans should also check the programme of events at The Fine Foundation Gallery in nearby Durlston Country Park.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

Walk through time<\/h4>\n\n

When it comes to exploring the Jurassic coastline on foot, highlights include dune-edged Studland Bay with views of the iconic Old Harry Rocks (named a er a wily old pirate); the South West Coast Path, which is punctuated by Tilly Whim Caves and Dancing Ledge. Further along is the isolated ancient chapel of St Aldhelm\u2019s, followed by Chapman\u2019s Pool, and then Kimmeridge Bay, which is a mecca for geologists, marine biologists and surfers. A visit to the Etches Collection \u2013 an independent fossil museum in the picture-perfect village above the bay \u2013 is well worth a detour.<\/span><\/p>\n\n

Where to eat<\/h4>\n\n

The Salt Pig, Wareham and Swanage<\/span><\/p>\n\n

These two delightful foodie emporiums, established by local provenance champion James Warren, o er the very best from Dorset\u2019s land and sea. Pop in for a hearty breakfast, lunch or treat (the Swanage branch also serves evening meals); make the most of the takeaway service (the deep-pan \u2018house\u2019 quiche is rightly famous); and stock up on delicious local fare in the urban farm shop and butchery.<\/p>\n\n

The Bear, Wareham<\/p>\n\n

This 18th-century coaching inn is a landmark in the Georgian town of Wareham \u2013 the gateway to Purbeck \u2013 and now a stylish delight, thanks to a painstaking renovation. The buzzy bar is clubby and cosy, the airy restaurant serves modern dishes created with local produce, and the all-day cake menu is hard to resist! (For a real treat, check in to one of the enticing en-suite rooms upstairs). Rooms <\/em>from <\/em>\u00a3110. <\/em><\/p>\n\n

Square & Compass, Worth Matravers<\/span><\/p>\n\n

This tiny 18th-century inn \u2013 named after quarry tools \u2013 has history seeping through its creaking ale-soaked bones. Customers queue along the agstone passageway to reach an old serving hatch for homemade hot pasties and pubbrewed cider, before settling by the <\/span>crackling open fire \u2013 or outside on stone seats as chickens wander, clucking happily. It\u2019s pure Thomas Hardy.<\/p>\n\n

<\/div>
\n

Getting Around <\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

A car is the best way to explore the Isle of Purbeck (most car hire companies are based in Poole). Otherwise, trains from London Waterloo to Wareham take approximately 2.5 hours. The open-top bus \u2013 The Purbeck Breezer \u2013 is another way to see the towns and landmarks (<\/span>morebus.co.uk<\/a>).<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

For bike hire, visit cyclex.co.uk<\/a> For more information, see visit-dorset.com<\/a><\/span><\/em><\/p>\n<\/div><\/section>\n\n

\"\"
Discover local delights at The Salt Pig; coastal charm abounds at The Pig on the Beach; Ben Spurling captures the view; brocante shopping at Smith\u2019s Vintage in Swanage; Old Harry Rocks \u2013 a Jurassic Coast landmark; Sarah Nicol\u2019s ceramics at The Mulberry Tree Gallery. CENTRE Eggs for breakfast at The Pig. Richard Gadsby; Jake Eastham; Ben Spurling; Andrea Comi\/Getty Images; Sharon Parsons<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Where to stay<\/h4>\n\n

The Pig on the Beach, Studland <\/p>\n\n

Dating back to the 17th century, this manor house was once the coastal home of George Bankes MP \u2013a descendant of \u2018Brave Dame Mary Bankes\u2019 who defended Corfe Castle against Cromwell\u2019s troops. Original fairy-tale turrets, sloping roofs, mullioned windows and a higgledy-piggledy layout all combine perfectly with the relaxed style for which The Pig Group is renowned. In the herb-scented conservatory, enjoy local seasonal produce while taking in views of the garden, which gently slopes to the sea. Rooms <\/em>only, <\/em>from <\/em>\u00a3155. <\/em><\/p>\n\n

Challow Farm Shepherd\u2019s Huts <\/p>\n\n

Tucked behind Corfe Castle, this 100-year-old farmhouse is a peaceful, eco-friendly enclave o ering luxury Bed & Breakfast, but there are also two traditionally built Shepherd\u2019s Huts set amid the farm\u2019s own woodland. With the crackling woodburner on, we\u2019d be hard-pushed to nd a be er spot to curl up with Thomas Hardy\u2019s Far <\/em>from <\/em>the <\/em>Madding <\/em>Crowd. <\/em>Sheep farmer Gabriel Oak would surely approve… Shepherd\u2019s <\/em>Huts, <\/em>from <\/em>\u00a3405 <\/em>for <\/em>3 <\/em>nights <\/em>(can <\/em>also <\/em>accommodate <\/em>a <\/em>child <\/em>or <\/em>dog).<\/em><\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Photography: Dmytro Abroskin\/Getty Images; Richard Gadsby; Patrick Anthonisz\/Alamy Stock Photo; Sharon Parsons, Jake Eastham; Ben Spurling; Andrea Comi<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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