{"id":11577,"date":"2022-06-10T09:30:01","date_gmt":"2022-06-10T07:30:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.homesandantiques.com\/?p=31697"},"modified":"2022-06-10T10:02:13","modified_gmt":"2022-06-10T08:02:13","slug":"escape-to-the-isle-of-purbeck","status":"publish","type":"rss_feed","link":"https:\/\/c01.purpledshub.com\/homesantiques\/rss_feed\/escape-to-the-isle-of-purbeck\/","title":{"rendered":"Escape to the Isle of Purbeck"},"content":{"rendered":"

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By Sharon Parsons\n \t\t<\/p>

Published: Friday, 10 June 2022 at 12:00 am<\/p>

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First things first: the Isle of Purbeck is not an island at all, but a 60-square-mile peninsula jutting dramatically out of Dorset\u2019s coastline. Its wide sandy beaches, rocky precipices and clifftop plateaus edge a pocket of unchanged loveliness: heathland dotted with bright gorse; green valleys knitted with remote farms and tiny hamlets; and, not least, the spine of chalk \u2013 the Purbeck Hills \u2013 running right through it, with a swooping gap showcasing the momentous ruins of Corfe Castle.<\/p>\n

To say this land is ancient barely touches the bones of it. Purbeck forms part of the World Heritage Jurassic Coastline, with 185-million-year-old fossils to prove it. Stone Age burial chambers dot the hillsides; there is evidence of early settlements; and the famous Purbeck stone was first quarried here by the Romans in 1AD.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a place that has long inspired writers, poets and artists, from Thomas Hardy to Enid Blyton, Joseph Turner to Philip Steer. Its landscape became the backdrop to adventures with smugglers and sunken treasure; its sometimes dramatic seafaring history depicted in oils. Even Vanessa Bell and her Bloomsbury circle descended for holidays.<\/p>\n

Today\u2019s creatives are still captivated by its magical qualities, with the annual Purbeck Art Weeks<\/a> showcasing a wealth of artistic talent. A trip here might encompass walks through ancient woodlands (Arne Nature Reserve is well worth a visit) or along well-trodden coastal paths; exploring stone-built villages steeped in local legend; or browsing for quality artwork and artisan crafts. Happily, the area is well-served for accommodation and pubs<\/a> \u2013 many with as rich a history as Purbeck itself.<\/p>\n

Places to visit<\/h2>\n

Corfe Castle & Village<\/h3>\n
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Dmytro Abroskin \/ Getty Images<\/i> <\/span>\n<\/div>\n

The craggy silhouette of Corfe Castle\u2019s ruins never fails to take your breath away, and its long history is equally dramatic: during the Civil War it was a Royalist stronghold and home to the loyal Bankes Family. An act of treachery saw it fall to the Parliamentarians, who swiftly destroyed it. Below is Corfe village, which was once the heart of the marble trade.<\/p>\n

Many of the Purbeck stone cottages and buildings incorporate materials pilfered long ago from the castle\u2019s remnants, which is why some boast grander features than you might expect. Here you\u2019ll find an ancient church, a host of shops, pubs, hotels and historic buildings \u2013 including the smallest town hall (and museum) in England, and a model village showing how the castle would once have looked.<\/p>\n

Visit Corfe Castle<\/a><\/p>\n

Tyneham Village<\/h3>\n

In winter 1943, the residents of Tyneham \u2013 a remote village tucked deep in the valley \u2013 were given 28 days to leave their homes by the British Army, who requisitioned the area for D-Day training. The villagers were promised that they could return after the war; this pledge was never kept.<\/p>\n

Today, the area is still used as a firing range, but the village is open to the public on certain days. The little schoolhouse has been beautifully restored and is just as it would have been when the residents left, even down to the children\u2019s nature study essays on the desk. The church is now a fascinating museum, commemorating the generations of families who once lived here.<\/p>\n

Visit Tyneham Village<\/a><\/p>\n

Swanage<\/h3>\n

The Victorians developed this fishing port into a quintessential British seaside town. The traditional promenade flanks the sandy beach, with the restored 19th-century Swanage pier \u2013 built for paddle steamers to transport Purbeck stone \u2013 stretching out into the bay.<\/p>\n

Some of the town\u2019s features are slightly incongruous: the Wellington Clock Tower at Peveril Point was originally erected on old London Bridge, while the Town Hall fa\u00e7ade once graced Mercers\u2019 Hall in the City of London.<\/p>\n

Duck down passages off the main street to find a backwater of little shops, and stop by the Enid Blyton-ish heritage railway station. Here you can take the steam train through the valley to Corfe Castle, just as her Famous Five gang did!<\/p>\n

Visit Swanage<\/a><\/p>\n

Where to shop<\/h2>\n

In Swanage, Smith\u2019s Vintage is a two-storey emporium of English and French furniture (owner Paul Ridges makes forays across the Channel whenever he can), combined with tempting brocante<\/a> finds \u2013 from ceramics and ironware to antique linens.\u00a0 Meanwhile, fans of vintage<\/a> and retro will love the aptly named Eklektika Antique Centre: a rambling space with everything from classic vinyl to quirky advertising signs<\/a>.<\/p>\n

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The Mulberry Tree Gallery shows works by local painters such as Ben Spurling<\/a>, who captures the essence of Purbeck, and contemporary ceramicists Kara Leigh Ford<\/a> and Alice Funge<\/a>. Their pieces are beautifully showcased alongside gifts and homewares. Art fans should also check the programme of events at The Fine Foundation Gallery<\/a> in nearby Durlston Country Park.<\/p>\n