Pro vs punter:
Block Soho
Critic KS Tong and reader Polly Kwok give their verdict on this new West End chophouse cooking steaks and seafood over coals
Block Soho is a new kid on the block recently opening on the intimate St Anne’s Court in the heart of Soho.
Billed as a “reimagined chophouse for a new generation”, there is unsurprisingly a focus on quality cuts of meat cooked over coal. However, equal attention has been paid to the seafood and shellfish offerings.
Expect dishes such as smoked pulled pork with sourdough toast and apple gravy, swordfish chop with samphire butter and fresh shellfish platters, as well as classic steaks sold by weight. There will also be Sunday roasts and a breakfast menu with a “hangover” burger, as well as a daily “Cocktails & Croquettes” happy hour.
With its industrial décor, an abundant cocktail menu and a wine list from small producers, Block Soho is looking to make its mark in the heart of the city, and bring a bit of fun to tradition. blocksoho.com
Our pro says
Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here.
Let’s make it clear – I love a chophouse. The feel, the energy and, more than anything, the food. There are few things I enjoy more than quality meat cooked over fire and, on paper, Block Soho ticked those boxes.
Seafood is sourced from Newlyn Harbour Fish Market in Cornwall and delivered to the restaurant daily, and whole cuts of meat are bought from Huntsham Court Farm, hung and aged in the restaurant’s own Himalayan salt chamber and butchered on site. Sounding good so far but sadly something seems to have got lost in translation.
The starter of smoked pulled pork on sourdough toast with apple gravy didn’t quite hit the mark, with a distinct lack of smokiness. The English shellfish cocktail starter proved to be quite nice with generous chunks of crayfish tail and a few whole prawns, though granted it is £17 which, for context, is pricier than some mains.
Oh, and speaking of mains (gosh I do love a good segue), as expected the usual steak suspects are all accounted for – fillet, ribeye, sirloin and beef rump. However, what was unexpected was its lack of flavour, though this was partially saved by a rather solid peppercorn sauce and a dish of swordfish chop with a rich samphire butter which was easily the highlight of the meal. Sides are necessary and the options here are pretty safe: the skin-on fries will be popular, as will the charred corn on the cob with thyme butter.
Rounding out was a delightful house seasonal fruit mess and a less delightful warm apple crumble that was more crumble than apple, served with a dull lemongrass and thyme custard and vanilla ice cream. Add in a pretty generic take on an industrial fit-out, and you’ve got yourself all the makings for a pretty average night.
However, there are redeeming qualities of the liquid variety which may tempt some with a strong and comparatively well-priced cocktail, a wine list and a 320-bottle bourbon collection behind the bar that makes it the capital’s biggest. Plus, service was very good, with waitstaff being attentive, enthusiastic and knowledgeable.
Bill for two, including service and a 50% discount on food for the soft launch: £135.69 | Atmosphere: 6 | Service: 8 | Food: 6 | Total: 20/30
Our punter says
Polly Kwok is a communications manager based in London. She loves East Asian food, and one of her favourite spots is Atariya Foods in Swiss Cottage for the freshest fish straight from the fishmonger, especially the fatty tuna and the chirashi bowl.
Situated in the heart of Soho is the newly opened chophouse, Block Soho. The overall vibe feels energetic and casual, more for the after-work crowd than a romantic date.
Upon arrival we were welcomed into a dimly lit restaurant, with loud music, industrial-style décor, leather booth seating, metro-tiled walls and marble tabletops. We were seated in armchairs at an awkwardly high and small table with barely enough room for the main course dishes we ordered.
When it came to the food and drinks, my husband seemed to have picked the highlights of our meal. His Barrell Aged old fashioned was smooth with aromatic mandarin bitters and brown sugar. His 200g fillet was flavourful, tender, well seasoned and cooked medium-rare, as requested. The truffle fries were hot and crispy with strong truffle flavour.
Unfortunately that was where the highlights ended. The non-alcoholic jasmine collins did not taste of jasmine, the 260g medium-rare ribeye was over-cooked, gristly and charred, similar to a pub steak apart from the price. The béarnaise sauce tasted like hollandaise sauce, and the baby gem side was so small that we finished it in two bites.
The shell-on prawns looked delicious on the plate and they tasted fresh but lacked the advertised chilli and garlic flavours. Lastly, when we tried to order a pint of IPA with the mains, one of their two draught beer options, it was not available.
Overall, the service was tentative and sluggish. The bar service seemed particularly disorganised, with more than one member of staff asking for us to repeat our order during the wait for drinks. With the wealth of steak house offerings in central London at all price points, this chophouse was underwhelming, representing poor value for money and not particularly worth a return visit.
Bill for two, including service and a 50% discount on food for the soft launch: £96.06 | Atmosphere: 7 | Service: 6 | Food: 6 | Total: 19/30