Eat in, eat out: Maria G’s

Eat in, eat out

Maria G’s

Inspired by Robin Gill’s time working in southern Italy, Maria G’s flavours will transport you from west London to a sleepy Italian fishing village, one bite at a time

Recipes AARON POTTER and ROBIN GILL
Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH

Tucked away within a sleek new housing development in Kensington, Maria G’s is testament to chef Robin Gill’s (pictured, above) love of Italy. He and executive chef Aaron Potter have created a menu of classics: perfectly cooked fish, such as line-caught pollock and sea bass crudo; pasta made daily; and delicate touches, such as freshly picked herbs in bar snacks like sage and anchovy fritti (recipe below). All this, plus expertly made cocktails. Look out for the new Maria G’s – a lovely spot by the Thames, with an outdoor terrace featuring a retractable roof – opening in Fulham in November. Its menu will include a special shellfish platter and sharing pans of pasta for the whole table. mariags.co.uk

MENU DECODER

Amalfi lemons

Bigger, juicier and more fragrant than your average supermarket lemon, there’s a reason this variety from Italy’s Amalfi coast is so prized. Because the acidity is more balanced, they can be eaten almost like an orange, though they’re less lip-puckering when used in pasta or a rich lemon curd. Even better – and if you fancy a kitchen project – try making limoncello with them.

Brodo

Italian for broth, this long-simmered stock is typically made using meat bones, vegetables and herbs. The long cook time is worth it in the end, as the flavours infuse the broth, packing plenty of depth and body. Freeze what you don’t use. If you really don’t have the time, substitute with a good-quality bone broth.

Amaro Santoni

Amaro is very popular in Italy, with Santoni itself hailing from Tuscany. A modernised amaro, its unique, patented vacuum distillation makes the botanicals bright and fresh. Follow Maria G’s head bartender Emanuel Ferris-Hue’s advice and enjoy it with tropical flavours such as passion fruit, or over ice with an orange slice.

Cantabrian anchovies

Anchovies can be divisive but as fans of the salty little fish will know, it doesn’t get much better than the Cantabrian variety. Sourced in northern Spain, they’re loved for their meatiness, melt-in-the-mouth texture and deep umami flavour. Use them to add depth to sauces and vinaigrettes. Or, if you’re really a fan, eat them straight from the tin.

Paper plane

SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY

30ml Mondino Amaro

20ml Amaro Santoni

15ml Four Roses bourbon

10ml lemon juice, plus a strip of lemon peel, to garnish

1 Pour all the ingredients, except the lemon peel, into a cocktail shaker along with some ice.

2 Shake well, then double-strain into a martini or coupe glass and garnish with a strip of lemon peel.

Vension tortellini in brodo with lardo di colonnata and sage

This recipe will leave you with left-over pasta dough, and it’s best not to re-roll this to make more tortellini, as they will be dry. Instead, use it to make rough pasta scraps such as maltagliati – ideal covered in homemade pasta sauce.

SERVES 4 | PREP 1 HR 20 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 4 HRS 15 MINS | MORE EFFORT

BRODO

olive oil, for drizzling

500g chicken wings, cut into pieces

100g thick-cut smoked bacon, cut into pieces

1kg chopped venison bones

2 celery sticks, roughly chopped

2 long shallots, peeled and roughly chopped

1 carrot, roughly chopped

4 garlic cloves

10 thyme sprigs

small handful of sage leaves

6 black peppercorns

4 juniper berries, crushed

250ml white wine

2 litres of good-quality chicken stock

PASTA

500g ‘00’ pasta flour, plus extra for dusting

10 egg yolks, plus

3 whole eggs

20ml extra-virgin olive oil

TORTELLINI FILLING

425g venison mince

40g pork fat, minced

40g lardo di colonnata or smoked pancetta, diced

small handful of sage leaves, finely chopped

4 juniper berries, finely chopped

1 For the brodo, lightly oil the chicken wings, bacon and venison bones. Tip into a flameproof roasting tin and roast at 190C/170C fan/gas 5 for 40 mins, tossing once, until fully cooked through and evenly dark golden brown. Strain the bones through a colander to remove any rendered fat, reserving it. Put the bones in a bowl and set aside.

2 In the same roasting tin, add a splash of the reserved fat, the celery, shallots and carrots. Peel the garlic and add this along with the thyme, half the sage, the peppercorns and juniper berries. Roast for 30-35 mins, then scrape into the bowl with the bones.

3 Pour the wine into the roasting tin and set over a low heat, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 mins or until the wine has reduced by half. Scrape into a large pan or flameproof casserole along with the bones, roasted veg and chicken stock. Season. Set over a medium heat and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 3-4 hrs, skimming off any fat that rises to the surface.

4 Meanwhile, make the pasta dough. Tip the flour into a food processor. Combine the egg yolks, whole eggs and oil in a jug, and pour this into the processor in a slow, steady stream with the motor running until a soft dough forms – it will resemble the texture of wet couscous.

5 Turn the dough out onto a clean worksurface and knead until the dough is smooth and springy. Wrap and chill for 30 mins. For the filling, combine all the ingredients in a bowl, seasoning well. Cook a small pinch of the filling mixture in a hot pan until cooked through, then taste for seasoning and adjust if needed.

6 Cut the dough into four pieces and roll out on a lightly floured worksurface with a pasta roller to a 2mm thickness. Using a 7cm biscuit cutter, stamp out as many discs as you can. Spoon a teaspoon of the filling into the centre of each disc, and fold the dough over to form a semi-circle, ensuring there are no air bubbles. Seal the pasta by gently pressing the edges together. If the dough is not sealing, lightly brush with a little cold water. With your thumb and index finger, take the pointed ends of the semi-circle, fold the tortellini in half and press the two points together to seal. Cover the prepared tortellini with a damp towel to prevent them drying out while you make the rest.

7 Pass the brodo through a colander, then a double layer of muslin over the rest of the sage and leave to infuse for 10 mins. Transfer the brodo to a pan and warm over a low heat. 8 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the tortellini in batches for 4-5 mins or until they float to the top. Drain and divide between bowls. Pour over the brodo to serve.

Sage and anchovy fritti with Amalfi lemon

Don’t be quick to chuck the oil from the anchovies – you can save it for another dish in the week.

SERVES 4 AS A CANAPÉ OR SNACK | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY

1-2 bunches of large-leaf sage

50g tin of Cantabrian anchovies sunflower oil, for frying

150g ‘00’ pasta flour

150ml whole milk

1 large Amalfi or unwaxed lemon, cut into wedges

1 Pick all of the sage leaves and match each one up with another leaf of a similar size. Arrange the pairs neatly on a tray, next to each other.

2 Drain the anchovies and cut each one in half. Put a piece of anchovy on every other sage leaf, then sandwich the leaves together, with the anchovy in the middle. Squeeze together.

3 Fill a large, heavy-based pan no more than a third full with oil and heat to 175C or until a cube of bread browns in 2-3 mins. Dust the sage and anchovy sandwiches with the flour, shaking off the excess. Dip into the milk, then coat in the flour again.

4 Deep-fry the fritti for 3-5 mins or until evenly golden on both sides. Drain well on kitchen paper and serve immediately with lemon wedges for squeezing over.

Set chocolate mousse

SERVES 6 | PREP 35 MINS PLUS CHILLING | COOK 20 MINS | EASY | GF

4 oranges

250ml whole milk

125ml double cream

150g egg yolks (about 11 eggs, freeze the whites for another recipe)

165g caster sugar

110g dark chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids)

50ml extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

pinch of sea salt

50ml Italian orange liqueur (such as Gran Gala or Aurum)

fennel pollen, to garnish (optional)

1 Zest two of the oranges, then juice them – you’ll need 100ml. Tip the milk, cream and orange zest into a pan. Bring to a simmer over a low heat. In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and 115g of the sugar for 2-3 mins until thick. Slowly pour in the hot milk, whisking. Return the mixture to the pan and simmer, stirring for 5-7 mins until you have a lightly thickened custard.

2 Put the chocolate in a food processor and pulse to break into small chunks. Pour the hot custard over the chocolate and blitz until you have a thick chocolate custard. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. Divide the mixture between six small serving bowls or ramekins. Leave to cool slightly, then chill in the fridge for 2 hrs until set.

3 Peel the remaining two oranges, removing the piths. Cut into segments, then large chunks. Put in a bowl. Spread the rest of the sugar over the base of a large pan over a medium-low heat. Cook until the sugar melts and begins to caramelise, swirling the pan to ensure it dissolves evenly. When the sugar is a light amber, add half the orange liqueur and all the orange juice, stirring. Over a low heat, allow any caramel that has hardened to melt again. Pour into a bowl and cool, then pour this over the orange segments, adding the remaining liqueur.

4 Remove the mousses from the fridge 30 mins before serving. Spoon over the orange segments and a little of the liquor. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fennel pollen, if using.

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