Cook like a local: Kolkata

Cook like a local

Kolkata

From rich celebration curries to crunchy chaitime snacks, explore the cuisine of this iconic West Bengal city

Words and recipes RINKU DUTT
Photographs STEVEN JOYCE

Kolkata, often referred to as the City of Joy, is situated in north-east India, on the eastern bank of the Hoogli River. Bengal’s cuisine – primarily fish and rice because of its geographical location in the Ganges Delta valley – has over centuries been imprinted with different cultures, social rituals, religious beliefs and colonising countries.

Tea was once only exported from India but the British introduced it as a hot drink. Kolkata is a tea-drinking city, with masala tea readily available on street corners and railway stations, served by the chaiwalas.

Different traditions and rituals had an impact on the food of Kolkata. Traditionally widows were not allowed to eat food that would heat up the body, so started cooking dishes without garlic, onions or ginger. During Puja, which is the worshipping ceremony of the Hindu gods and goddesses, non-vegetarian dishes were not allowed, so that introduced an array of delicious vegetarian dishes.

Bengali cuisine starts with the vegetable markets – produce arranged enticingly with shades of green, red, purple and brown. The fish markets are another experience, each fishmonger shouting out their catch of the day and bargaining with customers. In the kitchen, the round steel spice box that every family owns contains green dhania, brown jeera, red Shimla mirch, yellow turmeric and pink rock salt.

Classic ingredients include fenugreek, black mustard, cumin and fennel, Bengali panch phoron, coriander, green chilli and mustard oil. Must-try Bengali dishes include mustard fish (shorshe maach), kosha mangsho (a rich lamb dish), luchchi (fried puffed breads) and sada aloor torkari (potatoes in a white gravy).

Chingri macher malaikari (jumbo shrimp in a thick coconut curry)

The ultimate dish on any Bengali menu, this is usually made for special occasions, such as weddings and dinner feasts. The size of the shrimp is often the topic of conversation at the table. In Kolkata, going early in the morning to the fish market and haggling with the fish seller is all part of the fun. This can be made with all sizes of shrimp but for entertaining I would use jumbo shrimp (medium/large prawns).

1kg jumbo shrimp (medium/large prawns), deveined and heads removed

1 tsp ground turmeric

2 tbsp rapeseed oil

2 tsp ghee

2 bay leaves

1 cinnamon stick

3 green cardamom pods

4 cloves

2 onions, blitzed in a blender to a semi-coarse paste

1 tsp sugar

2cm piece of ginger, grated

2 tbsp greek yogurt

400ml tin coconut milk (use one with a high coconut content, above 75%), well shaken

1 tbsp coconut cream

1 tsp Bengali garam masala (see note, below right)

steamed basmati rice to serve

1 Combine the shrimp, turmeric and 1 tsp of salt in a bowl, and mix well to coat. Leave to marinate for 20 mins. Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, add the shrimp and cook for 2 mins until they change colour slightly but are not fully cooked through. Immediately remove to a bowl and set aside.

2 Heat the remaining tbsp of oil along with 1 tsp of the ghee in the same pan over a medium heat. Add the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, cardamom and cloves. Cook until fragrant, then add the onion paste and cook for 2 mins, stirring continuously. Mix in 1 tsp of salt along with the sugar, then add the ginger and cook for 1 min. Stir through the yogurt and cook for another minute. Add the coconut milk and coconut cream, stirring well to ensure there are no lumps. Check the consistency – if you prefer a thinner sauce, add 4 tbsp of water (generally the coconut sauce is delicately flavoured but quite thick). When the sauce begins to simmer, reduce the heat very slightly and add the shrimp. Stir well and cook for 4-5 mins or until the shrimp are cooked through.

3 Finally, sprinkle in the garam masala and add the remaining tsp of ghee to the middle of the pan (do not stir). Remove from the heat, cover the pan and leave to rest for 5 mins before serving. Just before serving, gently mix in the garam masala and melted ghee. Serve with steamed basmati rice.

“To make Bengali garam masala, crush 2 cinnamon sticks, the seeds of 6 cardamom pods and 6 cloves with a pestle and mortar”

Dim pauruti (Bengali french toast)

Ask most college students or office-goers and they will all have their own favourite kakur dokaner dim pauruti (uncle’s shop egg and bread). This is a popular morning street food that people from all walks of life eat. There are many variations of the history of this dish but as it is very similar to french toast, many say it dates to colonial times. Traditionally, milk bread is used, which has a sweet taste similar to brioche.

SERVES 2 AS A BRUNCH OR SNACK | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | VEGETARIAN

4 thick slices of brioche loaf

4 eggs

red onion, finely chopped

handful of finely chopped coriander (including the stalks)

1 chilli, finely chopped

½ tsp grated ginger

2 tbsp whole milk

1 tbsp unsalted butter

1 tbsp rapeseed oil

tomato ketchup to serve

1 Toast the brioche slices until lightly brown on each side and set aside. Crack the eggs into a bowl and whisk, then add all of the other ingredients, except the butter and oil, plus 1 tsp of salt.

2 Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan large enough to fit all the brioche slices in a single layer (although you can cook them individually if you prefer) over a medium heat for 1 min, then gently pour the egg mixture into the pan. Cook for 1 min, then put the brioche toasts on top of the egg mixture, making sure they don’t overlap. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 4 mins until the mixture has fully cooked through.

3 With a wooden spatula, cut the brioche omelette into quarters between each toast, if needed.

4 Serve two toasts on each plate with the cooked egg side facing up. Squeeze a bit of ketchup onto the side of the plate and enjoy.

Nimki (crunchy chai-time savoury snacks)

Offer someone from Kolkata some nimki and a cup of chai and sure enough they won’t refuse. These remind me of monsoon afternoons at home with friends. The tea would be bubbling away in a pan with aromatic spices and freshly made nimki would make the perfect snack accompaniment.

MAKES 1 LARGE JAR | PREP 30 MINS PLUS RESTING | COOK 10 MINS | EASY

450g plain flour

2 tsp nigella seeds

½ tsp caraway seeds tsp sugar

2 tbsp ghee vegetable oil for rolling and deep-frying

1 Combine the flour, nigella and caraway seeds, sugar, ghee and 1½ tsp of salt in a mixing bowl. Mix with your fingers to form a crumbly dough. Gradually add small amounts of water and continue kneading until a smooth dough forms. It should be soft yet holding together firmly. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and leave to rest for 40 mins.

2 Divide the dough into 6 balls. On a clean work surface, spread a thin layer of oil. Roll out a ball 2mm thick. With a sharp knife cut the circle into 1½ cm-wide diamonds. Re-roll the scraps to use up all the dough.

3 Heat enough oil for deep-frying in a karai or wok. When hot enough (a piece of dough should bubble and rise to the top), slowly lower in the diamonds in batches. Cook for 2 mins until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon to drain on kitchen paper. Enjoy freshly made with a cup of tea or chai, or cool and store in an airtight container for up to two weeks.

Recipes extracted from Kolkata: Recipes from the Heart of Bengal by Rinku Dutt (£26, Smith Street Books).

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